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Aspects of Shiva

Tomo Temple is known locally as Oubmong. It is located in the forest on the other side of the Mekong River, about 11 kilometres southeast of the Vat Phou Temple Complex, near Ban Tomo, a traditional village. The untouched ruins of this unusual temple are scattered on two artificial terraces overlooking a small river, Huei Tomo. The remains are half collapsed and hidden in the greenery, but the old embankment with steps is still used. The site has changed little since Etienne Edmond Lunet de Lajonquière rediscovered it at the beginning of the twentieth century.

The site was used for religious worship during the earliest phases of Khmer settlement of the area. An inscription mentions a nearby monastery dedicated to Rudrani, the shakti of Shiva. The site is therefore the female counterpart to the temple of Shiva at Vat Phou and an important part of the symbolic planning of the landscape. Like Vat Phou, Tomo Temple was renovated during the Angkor period, again attesting to its significance to the Khmers. Tomo Temple consists of a laterite enclosure wall, two gateways in good condition and the original temple, which has completely collapsed. The ruins of the shrine's brick towers are in the center of the enclosure. An inscription dated 889 has been found within the compound. The best-preserved building at Tomo is a gopura, an entrance building, on the southwest side, but it dates from the 12th-century work at the site. It is built of laterite with sandstone doors and window frames.

A carved pillar at Tomo Temple is of particular interest. It is decorated with the head of Shiva in each of the four directions, a form of linga known as a mukhalinga. A fifth face, uncarved and invisible but of the highest significance, is on the top. Each of the five faces represents particular manifestation, or aspect, of Shiva.

Tomo Temple has been heavily impacted by vegetation but fortunately has most of its sculpture intact.